Your Embroidery Services explains how to cut fabric with your embroidery machine using Venere needles

Venere embroidery is not your traditional type of embroidery with needle and thread. Instead, a special Venere cutting needle is used to cut out shapes in fabric.

Cut-out embroidery may not be new, says John-Paul Burton, sales director at Your Embroidery Services (YES), but using Venere needles opens it up to a much wider market. “When used properly, this technique allows you to create stunning eff ects at a price not previously possible,” he adds.

Sold here in the UK through YES to work with its SWF embroidery machines, the Venere needle has no eye: instead, the tip of the needle has been reshaped with a cutting edge. Four of the Venere needles replace the same number of standard needles on the embroidery machine.

“It is important that the needle numbers are noted, as this will form part of the digitising,” explains John-Paul. “For our purposes, let’s say that you have a 15-needle machine and are replacing needles 12, 13, 14 and 15 with the Venere needles. Once the needles have been inserted correctly into the machine, there is nothing else to do here. It is now the digitising that takes centre stage.

“When digitising embroidery designs, the artwork is more often than not a bitmap image (the most common format is a jpeg). This is used as a backdrop and the stitches are then digitised on top of this. For Venere embroidery this is still the case for the embroidered part of the design, but for the part of the design that is to be cut by the Venere needles, it makes more sense to think in terms of vectors or lines.

“For these needles, the digitiser must create a vector that the machine can follow with the needles operating in a north, south, east, west (0°, 90°, 135°, 225°) cutting action. There is no infi ll for this part of the design, just an edge or running stitch. When this part of the design is reached, the needles will cut out the designated area, which may be within or without the pattern, depending on the desired effect.”

To help understand this, picture a blouse that has a design that includes holes, such as a square block of stitches with a circle cut out in the middle. The digitiser creates the stitches in the usual way, fi lling in the square except for the circle in the middle, which would have a border around the edge. The Venere needles would then be used to cut out the circle.

Another example where Venere needles come into their own is in the manufacture of badges, as illustrated here.

One of the biggest advantages of this method is the fact that little or no extra skill is required, adds John-Paul. “If you can digitise then you can produce a Venere pattern. If you can operate a machine, then you can run that pattern as easily as any embroidery design. All you need is the software and the Venere needles.”

This system can be run on any size SWF machine from a compact single-head to a high production multi-head.

www.yesltd.co.uk

STEP-BY-STEP: VENERE EMBROIDERY

With Venere it is possible to produce cut-out badges in any number of units at no extra cost. Steve Gilbert, software technician at YES, explains how to produce them using Venere needles.

“First, create the embroidery programme. Add the cut line around the design and order at the end so it cuts after the design has sewn; if using software with the Venere option then it’s a case of just creating a vector line where you want the cut to be. Without the option then each cut angle needs to be produced in 0.5mm running stitch (as in the step-bystep, where it has been emphasised for clarity).

“Next, programme the embroidery machine’s colour sequence with the correct Venere needle for the angle of cut required. Turn off the thread break detection for the needle numbers related to the Venere needles. Then sit back and enjoy the machine cutting out the badge.”

1. Each Venere needle is identical, with a blade width of 1.2mm to enable it to fit down the needle plate

2. Four Venere needles replace the normal embroidery needles on the SWF machine

3. The first cut

4. The second cut. Felt is the best fabric for badges due to its stability, although any fabric can be cut, from woven or knitted to leather

5. The third cut. The more stable the fabric, the better. Adding a stiff cut-away backing will add stability for superior results

6. The fourth cut

7. All the cuts shown together

8. The final cut-out badge